My Ultimate Black Forest Itinerary: Fairytale Villages, Lakes & Scenic Drives

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The Black Forest knocked my socks off with how much it feels like stepping into a fairytale. Seriously, this place has everything…medieval towns with those classic German timber houses, dense forests that go on forever, and the prettiest lakes I’ve ever seen. Standing at the top of Triberg Falls watching Europe’s highest waterfall cascade down through the pines, I finally understood why the Brothers Grimm set so many stories here.

Let me tell you, the best things to do in the Black Forest go way beyond just eating the famous cake (though trust me, you’ll want plenty of that too). From wandering through the cobblestone streets of Freiburg to taking in the view from the tower at Lake Titisee, this region packs more charm per square mile than anywhere else in Germany. I’ve rounded up my favorite spots that prove why this corner of Germany lives up to all the hype.

Black Forest at a Glance 🌲🏰

The Black Forest sits in southwest Germany, brushing up against France and Switzerland. The first time I drove in from France, it felt like crossing into a different world…with rolling hills turned into thick pine forests, the air got cooler, and suddenly I was in the middle of a postcard.

It’s known for its storybook villages, spa towns, hiking trails, glassy mountain lakes, and yes… the original Black Forest cake (which, by the way, is dangerously addictive here). You’ve also got cuckoo clocks, fairytale castles, and enough scenic drives to keep your camera busy all day.

What makes it special for me is the mix. You can spend the morning hiking to Germany’s highest waterfall, have lunch in a timber-framed village, and end the day in a 19th-century thermal bath. It’s adventure and relaxation wrapped into one. Here are some of my favorite experiences you can look forward to…

• Most Scenic Drive: Black Forest High Road
• Best Waterfall Adventure: Triberg Waterfalls
• Chillest Lake Vibes: Lake Titisee
• Clock-Lovers’ Hidden Gem: Schonach
• Top Spa Experience: Baden-Baden
• Best Mountain Views: Feldberg
• Most Magical Alpine Lake: Mummelsee
• Coolest City-Meets-Nature Blend: Freiburg
• Best Cultural Time Warp: Black Forest Open Air Museum
• Most Fairytale Castle: Hohenzollern Castle
• Most Atmospheric Hike: Ravenna Gorge
• Quietest Hidden Lake: Glaswaldsee

How to Explore 🚗🚆

I’d give yourself at least three or four days to see the highlights without rushing. A week is even better…it gives you room for slow mornings, extra hikes, and the little towns most people skip.

I’ve explored by both car and train, and while the public transport works fine for bigger towns, having a car opens up way more possibilities. Some of the best lakes, viewpoints, and backroads are miles from the nearest station, and it’s nice to pull over whenever something catches your eye.

If you’re short on time, pick one or two bases…Freiburg if you want a lively city vibe, Baden-Baden for spa culture, and take day trips from there. If you’ve got more days, make it a loop, sleeping in a few different towns along the way.

Best Time to Visit the Black Forest

I’ve been to the Black Forest in every season, and each one gives it a totally different personality. Spring (April–June) is when the forests explode in green, wildflowers start popping up, and hiking trails reopen after winter. The weather can be a bit unpredictable, but the fresh air and quieter trails make it worth packing a light rain jacket.

Summer (July–August) is perfect for lake days, long hikes, and scenic drives with the windows down. It’s also when villages hold festivals, so you’ll find plenty of food stalls, music, and beer gardens. Just know it’s the busiest time, so book hotels early.

Autumn (September–October) is my personal favorite. The hills turn gold and crimson, there are fewer crowds, and you still get mild weather for hiking or cycling. Plus, it’s harvest season — perfect for sampling local wines and hearty dishes.

And lastly, winter (November–March) is pure magic if you’re into snow-covered villages, Christmas markets, and ski slopes. Baden-Baden’s spas feel even more inviting when it’s freezing outside, and the Ravenna Gorge Christmas Market is worth the trip alone. Now, here are all my favorite attractions and experiences in the Black Forest you should check out.

1. Drive along the Black Forest’s scenic roads

If you’re up for a scenic drive, the Black Forest Roads are packed with incredible views, charming villages, and winding forest routes. One of the most iconic drives is the Black Forest High Road (Schwarzwaldhochstraße), which stretches between Baden-Baden and Freudenstadt. It’s a great way to see dense conifer forests and sweeping mountain views. I rented a car and stopped at a few panoramic viewpoints…it was hard not to pull over every ten minutes.

For a slower-paced route, check out the Black Forest Valley Road, which passes landmarks like Schloss Favorite and the Schwarzenbach Dam. If you’re more into wellness than sightseeing, the Black Forest Spa Route takes you through towns known for mineral springs and relaxing spas. Each road gives you a different slice of the region’s character. No matter which one you take, this is a laid-back way to experience the best of the Black Forest.

• Read also: My Favorite Scenic Destinations in Germany

2. Triberg Waterfalls

Known as Germany’s highest waterfalls, the Triberg Waterfalls are a standout natural attraction in the Black Forest. The water drops over 500 feet in seven dramatic tiers, surrounded by pine trees and mossy trails. There are several marked paths to choose from—some steeper than others—but they’re all manageable. I took the middle route and stopped at multiple viewpoints to watch the water thunder past. Bring comfortable shoes and your camera.

The area is well set up for visitors, with signs explaining the local ecosystem and benches where you can take a break. In the evenings, the falls are lit up, which adds a cool, moody vibe. After your hike, pop into Triberg town for a slice of Black Forest cake or check out one of the cuckoo clock shops nearby. The combo of nature and local culture makes this stop both fun and memorable.

3. Lake Titisee

Lake Titisee is one of those peaceful spots that manages to feel laid-back and exciting at the same time. It’s a glacial lake tucked into the Southern Black Forest, and it’s perfect for a casual boat ride, paddleboarding, or just chilling on the grassy shore. I grabbed a coffee from one of the lakefront cafés and sat by the water for over an hour, just watching people paddle past. You don’t need a plan here—just time.

The walking path around the lake makes for an easy scenic loop, with great views the whole way. You’ll also find souvenir shops selling local crafts and food stands offering warm pretzels and smoked trout. On warmer days, people swim or rent pedal boats. If you want a view from above, hike up to Hochfirst Tower nearby. Whether you’re into relaxing or light adventure, Lake Titisee has both.

4. Schonach

The village of Schonach is tiny, but it plays a big role in Black Forest culture. It’s famous for being the home of the world’s largest cuckoo clock, which you can actually step inside to see how it works. I went on a rainy morning and ended up staying way longer than expected, talking to one of the clockmakers about how each piece is carved and assembled. The craftsmanship is seriously impressive.

Aside from the clocks, Schonach is also a great jumping-off point for hiking. There are multiple trails that take you through open meadows and forested slopes. If you visit in winter, you’ll find ski and snowshoe routes here, too. The town itself is charming, with cozy restaurants and traditional wooden architecture. If you’re looking for a place that feels untouched and authentic, this little clock-making hub definitely hits the mark.

5. Baden-Baden

Baden-Baden is where the Black Forest turns into a full-on spa retreat. This town is known for its thermal baths, especially Friedrichsbad, which mixes Roman and Irish bath traditions in a 17-step experience. I went mid-week, and the peaceful silence paired with the hot mineral water completely reset my brain. It’s not your usual tourist stop—and that’s what makes it special.

If you prefer something more modern, Caracalla Spa has saunas, whirlpools, and outdoor pools surrounded by forest views. Afterward, walk along the Lichtentaler Allee, a park-lined path next to the Oos River, or check out the Museum Frieder Burda for contemporary art. The Kurhaus casino adds a bit of glamor if you’re up for trying your luck. Whether you’re here to unwind or just curious about historic spa culture, Baden-Baden offers a unique way to slow down.

• Read next: The Absolute Best Spa Resorts in Europe

6. Feldberg

If you’re up for some elevation, Feldberg is the highest peak in the Black Forest, standing at 1,493 meters. I visited in early spring, and there was still snow on the trails, which made the view from the Feldbergbahn cable car even more dramatic. Whether you hike or ride up, the panoramic views of the surrounding mountains are incredible.

In winter, Feldberg is a full-on ski hub with runs for every level. It’s easy to rent gear if you didn’t pack any. In summer, hikers hit the trails winding through alpine meadows and forest. You can stop at Feldsee, a quiet glacial lake tucked in the trees, or climb the Feldberg Tower for an even better view. There’s a small lodge at the summit with food and drinks, so you don’t have to pack lunch. Feldberg mixes outdoor fun with seriously good scenery.

7. Mummelsee

Mummelsee is one of those places that feels slightly unreal…like it stepped out of a storybook. This round, mountain lake in the Northern Black Forest is surrounded by dense pine trees and steep trails, with myths about water nymphs and a hidden king adding to its vibe. I rented a paddle boat for 30 minutes, and even with clouds rolling in, the reflections on the water were unreal.

You can walk around the lake in about 20 minutes, or stop for coffee and cake at the café near the shore. The Hornisgrinde hike starts nearby, leading to the highest point in the Northern Black Forest. Along the way, expect sweeping views and quiet stretches of forest. If you like places with both nature and local folklore, Mummelsee is an easy favorite. Don’t skip the souvenir shop—they sell handmade clocks and wooden toys.

8. Freiburg

Freiburg sits right on the edge of the Black Forest, and it’s one of those cities that balances history with an easygoing vibe. The Freiburg Minster is the star of the show – a towering Gothic cathedral with a view from the top that’s worth every step. I climbed it on a clear day and could see all the way to the Vosges Mountains in France.

The town square outside the cathedral buzzes with vendors selling bratwurst, flowers, and fresh bread. Freiburg’s old town is packed with cafés, tiny shops, and medieval buildings. The little canals running through the streets, called Bächle, give it a playful charm—locals even float tiny boats in them during the summer. At night, the student population keeps things lively with bars and music. It’s a great mix of culture, food, and access to nature right at your doorstep.

9. Black Forest Open Air Museum

The Black Forest Open Air Museum in Gutach feels like walking straight into a time capsule. The main farmhouse, Vogtsbauernhof, dates back to the 1600s and still stands in its original spot. I caught one of the daily demos and got to try baking bread the old-fashioned way…it smelled amazing. Each building in the museum shows a different slice of rural life, from blacksmithing to weaving.

You’ll find several historic farmhouses, each furnished with tools and decor from different centuries. Kids will love the animals and hands-on workshops, and adults will appreciate how much context the museum provides about life in the Black Forest. It’s outdoors, which makes it even better on a nice day. The walking paths are well-marked and scenic. If you want to understand the traditions behind all those cuckoo clocks and wooden carvings, this is the place to do it.

10. Hohenzollern Castle

Perched high on Mount Hohenzollern, this castle looks exactly how you’d picture a fairy-tale fortress. But this isn’t just for show…it has deep roots in German history and was once home to the Prussian royal family. When I visited, the clouds broke just as I reached the top, and the view was unreal. You can see all the way across the Swabian Alps.

Inside, you’ll find ornate rooms filled with portraits, weapons, and royal treasures—including the crown of Wilhelm II. The Count’s Hall alone is worth the trip, with a vaulted ceiling and massive chandeliers. Outside, the ramparts and towers give you sweeping photo ops from every angle. There’s even a café on-site if you want to take a break. Whether you’re into architecture, history, or just impressive views, Hohenzollern Castle hits the mark.

11. Ravenna Gorge

Ravenna Gorge is a narrow forested valley that’s as scenic as it is atmospheric. It’s part hiking trail, part legend-filled hideaway. I tackled the short but steep path to the Ravenna Bridge, and it really did feel like entering another world. The old stone viaduct stretching above the gorge is a sight in itself—and yes, trains still cross it.

Along the way, you’ll pass waterfalls, moss-covered rocks, and a few wooden bridges that make it feel more like an adventure than a walk. In winter, the area hosts the Ravenna Gorge Christmas Market, tucked right beneath the towering bridge. Lanterns hang from trees, and stalls sell everything from glühwein to carved ornaments. Whether you go for the hike or the holiday lights, Ravenna Gorge has a low-key magic that sticks with you. It’s peaceful, photogenic, and never too crowded.

12. Glaswaldsee

Hidden deep in the Central Black Forest, Glaswaldsee is a remote mountain lake surrounded by fir trees and total silence. You won’t find boat rentals or busy cafés here…just a peaceful trail circling the water and a handful of benches to rest on. I brought a picnic and stayed longer than planned. Watching the clouds move across the lake’s mirrored surface was oddly hypnotic.

There’s a short but steep hike down from the parking area, which helps keep the area quiet and uncrowded. On clear days, the reflections are stunning, and in fall, the foliage turns everything gold. This is a great spot for photos, but it’s also perfect if you just want to sit still and do absolutely nothing. Glaswaldsee is the kind of place you visit once and immediately add to your list of quiet favorites.

FAQs about Visiting the Black Forest

Here are some popular questions I get from people looking to visit the Black Forest.

How many days do I need to explore the Black Forest?

From my experience, three to four days is a sweet spot if you want to see the highlights without feeling rushed. You can base yourself in Freiburg or Baden-Baden and take day trips to places like Triberg Falls, the Schwarzwaldhochstraße, and the Black Forest Open Air Museum. If you’re into hiking or slow travel, a full week will let you explore smaller villages and scenic trails.

What’s the best way to get around the Black Forest?

I’ve done it both by train and by car, and honestly, renting a car gave me way more flexibility. Public transport here is good, but some of the best spots, like hidden lakes and high viewpoints, aren’t near train stations. If you plan to stick to bigger towns and marked trails, the regional trains and buses will work fine.

When is the best time to visit the Black Forest?

I personally love visiting in late spring (May–June) when everything is green and blooming. Autumn is gorgeous too with fall colors and fewer crowds. Winter is magical if you want Christmas markets and snow-covered villages, but some hiking trails and attractions close for the season.

Is the Black Forest good for hiking?

Absolutely, hiking here is one of my favorite things to do. The trails are well-marked, and you can find everything from short, easy walks to multi-day treks like the Westweg. I recommend packing sturdy shoes and a rain jacket, even in summer, because the weather can change fast.

What food should I try in the Black Forest?

You can’t leave without trying Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte (Black Forest cake). I also love the local cured ham, hearty stews, and fresh trout from mountain streams. If you’re in Freiburg, grab a slice of cake from a family-run café…it always tastes better in a cozy, wood-paneled setting. This is one of my all-time favorite German foods.

Are there any hidden gems in the Black Forest?

One spot I always recommend is Mummelsee. It’s small but beautiful, and the legends about it are fascinating. I’ve also enjoyed wandering through Schiltach, a picture-perfect timber-framed village that feels like a step back in time.